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The Emperor’s Butterflies

Butterflies are hard to photograph.  Statues?  Easy.

Butterflies are hard to photograph. Statues? Easy.

It has been raining in Vienna for more than a week. Vienna is a lovely city in the rain–it gives inhabitants a good excuse to sit in cafes, drinking milky coffee and eating cake, and, as these are two of my very favorite activities, I’ve been enjoying myself thoroughly. Of course, Vienna is also home to some amazing museums, most housed in exquisite palaces. The Klimt paintings are probably the most famous, and they deserve to be–you simply can’t imagine how beautiful they are in person, delicately adorned in gold leaf. And this afternoon I’m off to the Folk Museum to see a collection of masks from around the world. This counts as working on the book, since African tribal traditions play a key role in the second half. And that’s just as well, because I continue to be bogged down in the increasingly fat middle of the book.

But last weekend I visited one of Vienna’s more unusual collections: Emperor Franz Joseph’s Butterfly House. It’s part of an enormous greenhouse, so the tropical warmth was quite welcome to me, a more-or-less native Tennessean.

I soon discovered that, pretty as they are, butterflies are very difficult to photograph. I already knew that the easiest way to tell a butterfly from a moth is that butterflies usually fold their wings closed when they land, and moths don’t. Some of the butterflies we saw had wings that were interesting on both sides. The morpho richardius has an iridescent blue strip on the outside, and watching one sail through the air can make your breath catch in your throat. When they land, you see the grey and black mottling with a pale yellow owl eye–creepy, but beautiful in its own way.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a single really great picture of one of them. But here’s the best I could do:

One of the lovely schmetterlings from the Schmetterling House

One of the lovely schmetterlings from the Schmetterling House

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Bigger is Better?

So I’m working on the second draft of Blood Red Shoes, and it keeps getting longer and longer. . . I can’t decide whether or not this is a good thing.

In my not-so-secret heart, I think 50,000 words is the perfect length for a book. The Great Gatsby is about 50,000 words–what more need I say? 50,000 words is space enough for an efficient writer to give you immortal characters, vividly imagined scenes, and a plot as deep and swift as a great river. I’m tackling In Search of Lost Time just now, which is something like 50,000,000 words long, so the metaphor of wading through it is all too apt. In both the real and metaphorical world, I enjoy wading (I grew up catching minnows and crayfish in little creeks, in big boots), but I do wish that Proust had also written a Good Parts version of his masterpiece.

Anyway, BRS is not yet on its way to joining In Search of Lost Time and its friends in the Longest Books Ever Club, but it is getting decidedly chubby. That’s because in this draft I’ve been persuaded to include non-essential elements like back story, and settings. I’m a child of the 80’s, when Ray Carver was god and writers (even tiny ones) were encouraged to eliminate every word that did not move the plot forward. Of course, in a certain sense, things like settings do move the plot forward, because it keeps the reader from wondering just where the conversation in question is taking place so he or she can concentrate on reading.

I always struggle with first person narration on the question of what to leave in and what to leave out (actually, this is also a problem in third person. Arguably, it is THE problem of writing.) I’ve spent a lot of time with the main character, Asha, by now. I know how she likes her lattes, her biggest pet peeves, and where she hides things she doesn’t want her mother to find–but does the reader need to know all this?

The answer gets harder the further I get into this book. It makes me worry about draft # 3. . .

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Alps Everywhere

I’m sitting in front of the University of Bern in Switzerland. While it’s true that Einstein was working as a patent clerk in town when he wrote his revolutionary papers on relativity, he did teach here afterwards–there’s an informational kiosk in four language on the subject a few yards away.

Beyond the fairy-tale clock towers and domes of the old town, the Alps loom. Since it’s early in the morning on a sunny day, the glaciers on top of the mountains are pale pink and blue, just a few shades lighter than the sky. In face, the scattered clouds look more solid and substantial–the Alps could have been painted on the horizon in watercolors.

In other words, Bern is just as beautiful as I had been told–good news, as I might well be moving here. However, I have learned a shocking secret about the Swiss. I have always imagined that they were an astoundingly tidy people. That’s because their cities really are incredibly clean and pleasant–you just don’t see litter in Switzerland. But right now I’m looking at a vile mess of plastic bottles and beer cans scattered all over the place. College students are the same everywhere, I suspect, even the Swiss ones. I can’t remember a single quad at Harvard so thoroughly trashed, although perhaps my memory is selective. Then again, the weather in Cambridge is rarely so gorgeous, and despite anything you might have heard, the campus just isn’t that pretty. Skyscrapers and red brick cannot compare with the Alps, so Harvard students don’t spend that much lolling around outside. There are much better places to drink on campus.

Nevertheless, as I write, a friendly man in orange and white is tidying the green, even separating the plastic from the glass and aluminum. Campus will be spotless before the first student wakes up and the early-bird tourists with an interest in science find their way to the university. So it’s not so much that the Swiss are naturally more perfect than anybody else–they are just faster and better at cleaning up.

I can’t help but feel there is a message in this for writers struggling through editing a messy first draft. But, on that subject, I should probably just get back to work and leave the philosophizing to the gentleman in orange and white.

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Mysteries of Language

Next week I start German lessons here in Vienna. That is a good thing, because doing anything by myself here is a lot harder without at least some German. I spent 40 minutes in a Billa yesterday searching for yeast to make a pizza for dinner. I had a list of four different words for yeast in German, but not one of them was the word on the package that allowed me to make dinner last night. And although I can say, “How are you?” to friendly strangers, I can’t actually understand their answers unless they say “Gut.” Fortunately, most of them do.

However, I secretly enjoy misunderstanding the conversations that buzz around me on subways and in the crowds swirling around the many icing-sugar palaces of the Hofburgs. I can invent dialogue that titillates and intrigues. My Vienna is filled with spies, sucubi, nature spirits down from the Vienna Woods for a night out among the humans and all manner of other oddities. Vienna is such a beautiful place, it’s easy to imagine all sorts being drawn here.
Vienna is the perfect place to write a dark fantasy–even a dark fantasy set in Nashville, Tennessee. So perhaps I should get back to work!

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Welcome to my new website!

Hi there!

If you’ve wandered over here, I can only assume you’re either a friend or a fan of the Boy Shopping books, Boy Shopping, Get More, and Like This and Like That.  I’m traveling around Europe at the moment, working on my new book, and I’ll report on my travels and travails shortly.  Check back soon for the fun stuff!

Current Location: Vienna, Austria

Current Mood: Cheerful

Current Writing Project: Blood Red Shoes

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